Southern France has long inspired artists, writers, and travelers seeking a life well lived. From sunlit markets and vineyard-covered hills to café culture and centuries-old villages, the region embodies la bonne vie—a way of life rooted in beauty, connection, and pleasure. This essay by Wanderlust’s editor-in-chief Don George traces his first journey through Provence and the Côte d’Azur, an experience that shaped his lifelong love affair with the South of France—and that inspired the new GeoEx journey he will be leading in 2027!

Falling in Love with France

Fifty years ago, a romantic and naïve young American, freshly graduated from Princeton University with a major in French, English, and American Literature, arrived in Paris to work for the summer as an intern for a French company. He was equally scared and excited, and while he didn’t know it, his life was about to change dramatically.

That young man was me, and the magic that changed my life was France. I fell deeply in love with France—the rich culture, the layered history, the scrumptious food and wine, the elegant urban architecture, the enchanting country landscapes, and the passionate people too.

Decades later, when National Geographic asked me to write about “the trip that changed my life,” I chose that summer in France, focusing on this pivotal moment:

“One morning halfway through my stay, I took my apartment building’s rickety old filigreed elevator as usual from the fifth floor to the hushed shade of the ground-floor entryway, then stepped through the massive wooden doors into the street—and stopped.

“All around me people were speaking French, wearing French, acting French. Shrugging their shoulders and twirling their scarves and drinking their cafés crèmes, calling out “Bonjour, monsieur-dame” and paying for Le Monde or Le Nouvel Observateur with francs and stepping importantly around me and staring straight into my eyes and subtly smiling in a way that only the French do.

“Until that summer, I had spent most of my life in classrooms, and I was planning after that European detour to spend most of the rest of my life in classrooms. Suddenly it struck me: This was the classroom.

“In that moment, the seed of my future sprouted. Rather than write about literature, I would write about life in the world, beginning with a graduate course in la bonne vie française.”

Discovering the Côte d’Azur and the Artists of the South

My “graduate studies” soared to new heights that summer when I ventured south to the Côte d’Azur. I had always been fascinated by the American writers and French artists drawn to this region, and arriving on the Riviera felt like stepping into the pages of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender Is the Night.

I celebrated Fitzgerald and Hemingway in Antibes and again in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a rocky artistic village perched above the Mediterranean. Chagall had lived here, and Matisse, Picasso, Giacometti, Miró, Léger, and Braque had all stayed for a spell, seduced by the same light and landscape that were seducing me.

Markets, Cafés, and the Art of Daily Life in Southern France

As I followed the trail of these artists and writers, I discovered something even more seductive than the scenery: the sumptuous, sensual, slow-paced lifestyle of Southern France.

I lost myself in the markets with their wildly colorful and fragrant bounty of tomatoes, peaches, nectarines, figs, melons, and beans—and their brilliant blooms of sunflowers, zinnias, and dahlias!

I noticed how shopkeepers and customers chatted amiably, unhurriedly, more interested in conversation than commerce, and how people of all ages would settle into plaza-side cafés at any time of day to debate and elate over cafés crèmes and glasses of rosé.

Provence and the Sensory Richness of the Good Life

I discovered tiny shops proudly displaying exquisite pottery, textiles, cheeses, spices, soaps, and perfumes. And I discovered the secret locals knew by heart: how celebrating the minute miracles of mundane life makes every day feel richer, fuller, and more alive.

This fundamentally reshaped my sense of what matters. After years spent in fusty classrooms, Southern France threw open the doors of the world to me, with dazzling sunlight, sparkling seas and shimmering green hills, soaring works of art, succulent cuisine, luminous wines, and kind, gregarious people who had been steeped in the secret from birth. Southern France was a luscious celebration of life—and I devoured it hungrily.

Experiencing La Bonne Vie Today

Now I am thrilled that GeoEx has crafted a journey that captures these early adventures and the splendors of Southern France that so enchanted me. And that I get to lead it!

On this very personal pilgrimage, we’ll pay homage to great writers and artists, sitting where Fitzgerald once wrote, pausing where Matisse painted. We’ll explore off-the-beaten-path villages, amble through markets, linger in cafés, and immerse ourselves in history.

We’ll visit wineries and châteaux, olive oil and lavender producers, perfume-makers, glass-blowers, truffle-hunters, and hidden studios most visitors never see. We’ll learn how to play pétanque, savor Michelin-starred feasts and Provençal picniques, and enjoy a home-cooked meal prepared just for us by a special local chef.

To complete our enchantment, we’ll be based in two exceptional homes away from home: For half the journey, we’ll stay in the finest hotel in magical Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and for the other half, we’ll have our very own country house set among the rich green fields and vineyards of Provence.

As we feast on all these riches, my fervent hope is that we’ll all fall deeply in love with the good life in Southern France—just as that romantic and naïve young American did five decades before.

An Invitation to Experience La Bonne Vie

If this story has stirred your imagination, we invite you to explore Southern France alongside Don George on a thoughtfully crafted GeoEx journey. Designed as a culturally immersive small-group adventure, it traces the art, cuisine, villages, and everyday rituals that define the good life in Provence and the Côte d’Azur.

To learn more about the journey, or to speak with a GeoEx travel expert about exploring Southern France, we invite you to get in touch.

Frequently Asked Questions About Southern France

What is “la bonne vie” in Southern France?

La bonne vie refers to a way of living centered on pleasure, balance, and attention to everyday rituals—good food, conversation, beauty, and time well spent.

Why is Southern France known for art and culture?

The region’s light, landscapes, and lifestyle drew generations of artists and writers, from Chagall and Matisse to F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway.

What makes Provence and the Côte d’Azur special for travelers?

Provence offers markets, vineyards, and historic villages rooted in tradition, while the Côte d’Azur blends Mediterranean beauty with a rich artistic and literary heritage.

What is slow travel in Southern France?

Slow travel emphasizes immersion—lingering in cafés, exploring local markets, engaging with artisans, and experiencing daily life at an unhurried pace.

Can travelers explore Southern France with Don George?

Yes. Don George will be leading a GeoEx journey through Provence and the Côte d’Azur, inspired by the experiences described in this essay and designed as a culturally immersive exploration of the region.