As J.P. McAuley’s words suggest, Papua New Guinea is the kind of place that shocks even experienced travelers with its exuberant greenery, its huge landscapes only barely affected by humans. The people of this mysterious land, representing hundreds of ethnic groups and speaking more than 800 languages, surprise many outsiders with their astutely interactive open spirit. It’s this combination of dramatic untethered nature and particularly welcoming folks that make journeys to PNG so magnificently memorable.