A little larger than California, Turkmenistan is dominated by the Karakum Desert, a breathtaking sight for those with a taste for vast barreness. The country’s history is one of conquest, re-conquest, and the rise and fall of empires. Alexander the Great passed through Turkmenistan on his way to India, and the long-lived Seljuk Empire arose here. Genghis Khan swept through Turkmenistan and the Soviets dragooned it into their modern-day empire. And, since the millennial Silk Road passed through it, Turkmenistan is the site of a number of fascinating archeological sites, most prominently the ancient city of Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and, in the 12th century, quite possibly the world’s most populous city.