J.P. McAuley captured New Guinea’s intense charisma when he called it the “Bird-shaped island, with secretive bird-voices / Land of apocalypse, where the earth dances, / The mountains speak, and the doors of spirit open.” Papua New Guinea’s south sea islands and mainland coasts are outstanding spirit-openers, and our cruises aboard the True North give us a chance to delight in them deeply. (And our week-long extension to the great island’s inland mountains and jungles is a fine opportunity to listen to those speaking mountains and extravagantly plumed birds.)

A stylishly beautiful, 164-foot, 18-cabin ship, the True North is traditional in spirit, modern to the last rivet. Among its stellar amenities: an on-board, air-conditioned touring helicopter, lovely and restful cabins, the latest in computer-controlled motion stabilizers, a mini-fleet of expedition boats (not the standard Zodiacs), delightful cuisine, a ship’s naturalist, and bright, unending hospitality from its all-Australian 20-member crew.

Purpose-built from the keel up, the True North is able to navigate the isolated lagoons and inlets of the South Pacific’s most paradisiacal islands — hence its very shallow, seven-foot draft. And so, with a nimbleness few cruise ships can match, the True North takes us to the eastern end of the island of New Guinea for a leisurely exploration of its magnificently lush coast, with helicopter rides over sparkling bays, snorkeling in the coral reefs of the Solomon Sea with manta rays, lonely walks on white sand beaches, and naturalist-guided explorations of Jurassic Park-like jungles.

Our optional 8-day post-trip extension takes us to Papua New Guinea’s highlands and lowland jungles - riotously, joyfully lush and unsullied. On this extension to your island-hopping True North cruise, you’ll revel in this natural exuberance and get acquainted with the country’s people, about whom Jared Diamond wrote so emphatically in his masterpiece, Guns, Germs, and Steel, “They impressed me as being on the average more intelligent, more alert, more expressive and more interested in things and people around them than the average European or American is.” (They’re also famously welcoming and gracious.)

9-Day Cruise

Day 1: Arrive in Cairns, Australia • Day 2: charter flight north to Papua New Guinea, board True North and begin cruising • Days 3-8: cruising between Alotau and Kavieng (or vice versa) with stops at Milne Bay, Tufi’s fjords, Lusancay Islands, New Britain, Jacqinot Bay, Duke of York Islands and Rabaul, with many opportunities for cultural interactions as well as swimming, diving, snorkeling, fishing and helicoptering • Day 9: disembark and begin land extension in Papua New Guinea’s mountains and jungles or board charter flight back to Cairns.

12-Day Cruise

Day 1: Arrive in Cairns, Australia • Day 2: charter flight north to Papua New Guinea, board True North and begin cruising • Days 3-11: cruising between Madang and Kavieng with stops at the Sepik River, Hansa Bay, Bababag Island, Christmas or New Year’s Bay, Saidor, Long Island turtle rookery, Lake Wisdom, Bismarck Archipelago, Kimbe Bay, Baia Sport Fishing Lodge, Mascott Channel and Mansava, with many opportunities for cultural interactions as well as walking, swimming, diving, snorkeling, fishing and helicoptering • Day 12: disembark and begin land extension in Papua New Guinea’s mountains and jungles or board charter flight back to Cairns.

13-Day Cruise

Day 1: Arrive in Cairns, Australia • Day 2: charter flight north to Papua New Guinea, board True North and begin cruising • Days 3-12: cruising between Kavieng and Madang with stops at the New Hanover Island area, Manus Province island groups including Admiralty Islands, Lou Island, Tong Island, Pak Island, Ponam Island, the Hermit Islands, the Ninigo Islands, Wuvulu and other western islands of the Bismarck Archipelago, Kairiu and Musha Islands and the Sepik River, with many opportunities for cultural interactions as well as walking, swimming, diving, snorkeling, fishing, helicoptering • Day 13: disembark and begin land extension in Papua New Guinea’s mountains and jungles or board charter flight back to Cairns.

Optional 8-day Land Extension to Papua New Guinea’s Highlands and Lowland Jungles

Day 1: disembark True North and fly to Port Moresby and inland to the highland town of Mount Hagen • Day 2: full day cultural touring in Mount Hagen/Wahgi Valley area, based from the 7,100-foot Rondon Ridge Lodge, perched on the slopes of Kum Mountain • Day 3: charter flight from Mount Hagen southeast to lowland rain forest of Karawari, transfer to ridgetop Karawari Lodge above the Sepik River, explore nearby Kundiman village • Day 4: full day of village and beauteous jungle explorations via riverboat • Day 5: charter flight into the southern highlands to Ambua and the Ambua Lodge, high on the slopes of the Tari Valley, home of the typically alert, expressive, and very traditional Huli people. Afternoon exploration near the lodge • Day 6: explore the wonderful Tari Valley, rich in orchids, waterfalls, and 13 species of those Picassoan birds of paradise • Day 7: fly to Port Moresby, transfer to hotel • Day 8: flights onward.

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