Under our trip Highlands of Ladakh we do some rhapsodizing about Ladakh, omitting praise of its capital, Leh, set in a high, fertile valley, dominated by the royal palace, a Potala-like wonder that Andrew Harvey said was “the solidest joy of Leh.” We follow an ancient Silk Road tributary from Leh (G. T. Vigne wrote in Travels in Kashmir, Ladak, Iskardo that “the merchandise that travels from Yarkund, via Ladakh to Hindustan [i.e., Kashmir], consists of gold, in ducats from Russia, in old coins from Bokhara . . . silks, silver, and porcelain from China, musks, and fur”). We visit the great monastery complex at Alchi, then continue east to Kargil and the 11,000-foot Zoji La, coming down from the heights of the far eastern Tibetan Plateau to alight in the heavenly Vale of Kashmir, one of the world’s most beautiful places, once again a sane place for the questing traveler. The British Raj’s favored hill station, Srinagar, and its wonderful lakes, with their cherished houseboats, floating flower sellers, and mountain girded-landscapes, were long a byword for nearly unearthly beauty. We agree with the great Jan Morris, who wrote, “It seems paradoxical that Kashmir, disputed by India and Pakistan, should also be a paradigm of escape; but . . . I escaped there myself with a dream-like delight.”

Days 1 & 2: USA to Delhi • Day 3: Delhi • Day 4: fly to Leh • Days 5 & 6: Leh • Day 7: Leh to Alchi • Day 8: Alchi to Kargil • Day 9: Kargil to Srinagar via Sonmarg • Day 10: Srinagar • Day 11: excursion to Gulmarg • Day 12: Srinagar • Day 13: fly to Delhi • Day 14: Delhi, depart for USA • Day 15: arrive in USA.

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