Civilizations come and go, and we absorb that truism throughout Guatemala; the Spanish built cities on Mayan ruins, and were in turn supplanted by the mixed glories of modernity. Our itineraries take in Antigua, the region’s colonial-era capital. Nestled among verdant volcanoes and chock-a-block with ornate mansions and churches brightly capped in terra cotta, this is as lovely a town as any of us will likely ever see. We wander the colorful local market in Chichicastenango (one of the country’s largest Mayan markets). The people of this mountain region adhere to indigenous beliefs and ceremonies, and we often observe these ancient rites—even in local churches. Encircled by the gracefully sweeping silhouettes of volcanic peaks, Lake Atitlán is one of the most eye-popping places in Central America. And we explore the impressive remains of the Mayan capital of Tikal and nearby Yaxha. Some 1,300 years ago, Tikal’s five towering temples glinted above the jungle canopy, signaling the Mayans’ evanescent ascendancy.