We begin in Addis Ababa, capital of a country that Dervla Murphy wrote “gives one the impression of living through different centuries.” We have few days to explore Addis and its surrounding villages, including the many churches, some of them carved from rock, of World Heritage Site Lalibla (reminding us of Ethiopia’s fascinating Christian heritage). We fly south to Arba Minch and Jinka, where we’ll camp and visit the Mursi people, a distinctive and colorful group of pastoralists. We’ll wander in the market at Key Afar and drive to Turmi, whose Hammer people are, to all appearances, nicely ensconced in another century. Our fine camp gives us the chance to roam freely, savoring a rare experience of untouristed Africa.

Now by charter flight south to Kenya’s Northern Frontier District, a vast, deserty expanse inhabited by nomads the great photographer and eccentric Peter Beard in his entrancing and rare book, The Eyelids of Morning, described as “a striking people who make a strong impression on anyone who sees them.” (A bit of Beardian understatement; the Turkana and related tribes are physically magnificent folk, and quietly engaging to boot.) This nicely remote area is dominated by colossal Lake Turkana (which some old maps call Lake Rudolph), and we’ll have a few days of exploration in and around the great rift lake, a thin inland sea of expressive personality, populated by gargantuan crocodiles who spend their days slowly swimming about pondering the Pleistocene. Then farther south to Nairobi’s Ngong House, where we’ll have a little time to reacquaint ourselves with the 21st century before heading home.

Days 1-2: USA to Addis Ababa • Day 3: early morning arrival, sightseeing in Addis • Days 4-5: around and about Addis, based from Sheraton Hotel • Day 6: charter flight to Arba Minch • Day 7: drive to camp • Day 8: excursion to Mago National Park, visit Mursi tribe, camp at Jinka • Day 9: drive to Turmi, camp • Day 10: excursion to Karo tribes in Murelle, camp at Turmi • Day 11: charter flight to Northern Frontier District in Kenya • Days 12-13: Northern Frontier District • Day 14: fly to Nairobi, Ngong House day rooms, late evening flight to Europe • Day 15: arrive in Europe and fly on to USA.

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