We voyage throughout the Arctic on ice-strengthened expedition ships and mighty Russian icebreakers which are tough as nails outside, but with cruise-ship-like accoutrement inside—and keep busy with onboard lectures, helicopter trips (off the icebreaker), visits to the bridge, wildlife sightings, and the drama of ice and light that makes the Arctic so fiercely compelling. We find the truth of Barry Lopez’s observation in Arctic Dreams that while tundra may “initially appear barren, [it] can open suddenly like a corona of a flower, when any intimacy with it is sought.” And if our journey takes us to the North Pole, we might even follow the example of the great photographer-writer Galen Rowell and “dance a circle through 24 time zones and drink toasts.”

Those of us taking part in a voyage on some of the smaller expedition ships, those who are inclined to get a more up-close and intimate look may even want to venture out on our sea kayaks.